Friday, September 20, 2013

My Property Went Underwater Now What?

We will continue on condensate drains next time. I came across this interesting article on "The Great Indoors Blog" on IAQNet--by Bob Krell an IAQIH.
It does bring out some great information.

My Property Went Underwater...Now What?
If you were one of the unfortunate people that was flooded by Hurricane Sandy yesterday, here are a basic list of considerations for helping you get safely back on your feet:
  1. Don't Go Back Into Your Property Until Emergency Officials Give the OK - As bad as things might seem, rushing back into a recently flooded building may be a significantlyAn image of a stick figure plugging a cord into an outlet while standing in water. worse idea!  In addition to any damage to your contents, the water may have caused structural damage that could make it unsafe to enter your property.  Another concern is a potential electrical hazard. Once power is restored to your area, your electrical wiring may still be wet and dangerous!  It is best to have all potentially water-damaged electrical components checked by a professional electrician prior to any re-energizing or re-occupancy of the building to reduce the risks of electrical shock or electrical fires.
  2. Contact Your Insurance Carrier - Begin the process of creating a claim for losses that are covered under your insurance policy. 
  3. Document, Document, Document! - Take photos and video detailing the extent of the damage to both the structure and the contents. Hopefully you have pre-loss photos/video, as they can be helpful with establishing the extent of the damage. If not, definitely begin photo documentation ASAP! 
  4. Get It Dry, Get it Clean - This may clearly be easier to say than actually achieve under the circumstances, but whatever you can do to get your building's structure and it's contents dry fast will help to minimize your subsequent damage. Try to salvage irreplaceable items like family photos, rare collectibles, etc, and get them to a safe place where they can be dried out. Gypsum board (AKA sheetrock) doesn't fare well when submerged, despite what some insurance adjusters would like you to believe. Once saturated, it can be structurally compromised, and very prone to subsequent mold growth. When in doubt, tear it out! The same goes for any wet fiberglass insulation, carpeting, or upholstered furniture, bedding and any unsealed food items. Floods are considered Category 3 (Black Water), since they are contaminated with sewage and other unsavory contents. For a period of time after a significant flood event, the risk of bacterial contamination is greatest, so protect yourself from exposure if you're going in (PPE or Personal Protective Equipment is strongly recommended, including respirator, gloves, eye protection at minimum).
  5. And Then, There's Mold? - If all this wasn't bad enough, the fungal invaders may start appearing anywhere from a few days to several weeks after the flooding. Mold tends to attack processed wood products and leather goods quickly, but can colonize on virtually any surface with sufficient nutrients and moisture--so pretty much any dirty and damp material will do!  Let it suffice to say that I won't be warning of "Deadly toxic black mold", but rather offering a more objective viewpoint in lieu of the hysterical approach. Mold growing outdoors-normal. Mold growing indoors-NOT normal.  I really don't get into fungal racism; pretty much any species of mold growing indoors in quantity is undesirable, period. It needs to be addressed. And not with bleach! 
For more information contact us:
R&L Envirocare
417-942-2451
800-526-4978

Friday, August 30, 2013

Cold Humidity Solutions -Part 2

The other problem creating "cold humidty" is leaky ducts. If the air is leaking out of your ducts, chances are good that humid unconditioned air is leaking in when the system is off. The other problem is that if the return air ducts are leaky, you are sucking in air from an unconditioned space like attic or crawl space--yucky stuff!
The leaks can be manifested with a smoke bomb placed in either plenum. The simplest would be just to seal every exposed joint with a duct mastic. If there are doubts hire a professional duct leakage testing company.
Next time we will cover condensate drains and how much this can affect your system.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Cold Humidity Solutions 1

To help combat humidity getting back into home via the metal ducting one should do the obvious--insulate the ducting. The cleanest and easiest method is to use an insulation called "Reflectix" which is a foiled backed bubble wrap. All you need is enough to cover your ducting, spray adhesive, duct tape, and possibly some baling wire for certain sections. Measure diameter of ducts or measure around the circumference with a string, add about 3 inches and cut, put wrap up on duct, spray wrap (inside) and duct, let set for a couple of seconds and put pressure to wrap it around. You can add baling wire around long sections, and tape the seams. It will be a clean job and definitely not "itchy". Next time we'll cover checking the air leakage.

Friday, August 9, 2013

Mold In The News

Take a look at this video from 2009.  Keep in mind it was a new home at the time. Our energy efficiency
standards hurt our health.

Fox News report - mold sickens family

Fox News reported that a Virginia family was sickened by mold in their new, custom built, home. Watch it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5tXlKN5uFA

If you come across any recent issues with mold please share them here. Next week we will discuss how to deal with this low temp high humidity problem we are having in Southwest Missouri.

Friday, July 26, 2013

Cold Humidity Part 2

Well again no responses to look at some issues out there. Come on folks lets get some interaction here.
Anyway I'll go over some items I have ran across. Metal ducting under house in crawl space. No insulation. What happens? Here are some scenarios: Crawl space is well insulated, well ventilated......hot summer day the air in crawl space will rise with ambient temperature....the humidity level is high... air in ducting from AC system is cool.... condensation forms inside and outside of the metal ducting. On the outside of ducts it "rains", on the inside...there is humidity being put back into airflow but a cooler temperature. Inside the building the temperature is cooling down but the humidity level is not being lowered much.  Next time a solution. Send us your issue.

Friday, July 19, 2013

"Cold Humidity" Part 1

Well no one responded to last week's post, so I guess I don't have anyone reading this but me. Well I'm going to give you content anyway.
Pay attention to the "feel" of the air during this air conditioning season. Does it feel cool but still "clammy", is there cooling but then warm spots in your building? Is there a persistent moisture odor?
I will discuss some these things next week. Check out your system, dirty blower? Dirty coil? Water sitting in condensate pan? Metal ducts not insulated?
Send me your issue, let us diagnose it here.
See you next week.

Friday, July 12, 2013

Is Anybody Out There?

This week I would like to put it to you all out there in blogger land. Is anyone reading this information?
I have taken a few weeks off trying to figure out how I can offer the best up to date IAQ and HVAC information to you and I need some feedback.
So any of you blog experts--comment here or email me @       rick@rlenvirocare.com
I want to give you the best content I can every week.
Till next Friday